Like a kid in a candy store, taking in the confectionary spices, medicinal cherry, blueberry compote and licorice aromas of the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino is a total pleasure. While silky and elegant, this is also racy and with depths of character, as red and black berries are complicated by notes of cinnamon, clove and a bitter dusting of cocoa. The 2018 finishes potent and long, but only lightly structured, begging for some cellaring, but also placing all of its goods on display. Nearly a minute goes by, and nuances of violette pastille and hard red candies still echo throughout.